LONDON FASHION WEEK | DAY 1 COLLECTION REVIEWS

London Fashion Week began with more of a whisper than a bang. Not only because of the muted color palettes but the thread of soft femininity that seemed to link all the collections. Even collections that featured bright punchy colors and tailored pieces oozed a certain ladylike ease. There were some misses to this point, however, the hits certainly had the fashion crowd excited to see what London had to offer for Spring/Summer 2016.

Here are 8 of the 15 designers that were on the official calendar for day one and some of my favorite looks from their collections

Zandra Rhodes SS16

Zandra Rhodes
Zandra Rhodes SS16 collection had a "cool girl on a resort holiday" vibe to it, especially because of the use of color and prints. The small assortment of prints exuded different qualities. The blue and orange print had an aquatic feel to it, particularly because of its reef-like pattern. The blue and white print brought about thoughts of a Cycladic island getaway and the pink and white print, a Caribbean feel. The prints are what really carried and set this collection apart as the silhouettes are familiar staples in most wardrobes.  The visors and sneakers added a youthful and casual quality to the entire collection which spoke to the "cool girl" look of it all. 

J. JS Lee SS16

J. JS Lee
J. JS Lee
Modern, minimal and unstructured were the words that came to mind while viewing the J. JS Lee SS16 collection. It featured traditionally tailored silhouettes that were deconstructed to make them soft and feminine, one of those looks included the nude sleeveless suit that opened the show. A key design element were the new necklines offered with a lot of the pieces - layered necklines. These necklines were shaped differently and looked as if two garments with differing necklines were being worn together. A new and refreshing detail that peaked my interest in the designs. The collection also included stripes which seem to be a growing trend for SS16.

FELDER FELDER SS '16
Felder Felder
Felder Felder featured holographic metallic pieces in separates and dresses. It also features prints in separates which were my favorite looks in the collection. I could not quite put my finger on the pulse of this collection, youthful, yes, but none of the looks never really made a statement. This is perfect for a certain consumer I know, but something was amiss especially in the hemlines of the skirts which were too short or not quite long enough. All in all, the best moments of the collection are pictured above and they were the looks that exuded some sophistication. 
Bora Aksu
Bora Aksu
The cord lace gowns were the most beautiful part of Bora Aksu's SS16 collection. They would make perfect red carpet moments for a young fashionable starlet. The other looks in the collection read soft and girly and this was due to the color palette and the overall femininity of the silhouettes.
Edeline Lee
Edeline Lee
Artsy is one word that accurately describes Edeline Lee's SS16 collection. It was pop art without the punchy colors and it worked! The soft colors were a delight and a refreshing take on color blocking. Modern, sporty and feminine, the collection featured bomber jackets, tee shirts, shirt dresses and also cocktail and evening dresses. I particularly loved the asymmetry of the tops on the dresses. The mix of prints added a fun and youthful appeal to the dresses as well. Definitely one of my favorites of the day.
Eudon Choi
Eudon Choi
Eudon Choi's collection certainly had an urbane feel about it. Carefree and modern in its appeal, there was an elegant quality to his clothes. Noteworthy was the use of drawstrings in non-traditional places like on sleeves, mid-thigh on pants and in various other places. This design element was also used to transform the classic trench coat, something that has not been done in a while. My personal favorites were the off-the-shoulder dresses and the skirts with asymmetrical hemlines. Eudon Choi SS16 was one of my favorites of the day.
DAKS
If a "Bohemian Working Woman" exists, DAKS SS16 created her perfect wardrobe. Everything from office to evening wear was offered. The ease in the clothes, the use of suede and that certain shade of brown seem to solidify the boho theme in more tailored and refined way. The handbags and shoes complemented the looks perfectly, without the obvious embellishments like fringe and feathers. 
Jean-Pierre Braganza
Jean-Pierre Braganza offered looks that played with fluidity and structure. No one look embodied one trait without the other for example, the white suit though structured in the blazer was balanced by the fluidity of the pants, that mix gave me a modern architectural vibe. The same could be felt in the looks that used a print that seemed to capture the flow of molten lava. This print was paired with leather, soft leather which in and of itself articulates that balance. The blue evening dress spoke to this point beautifully as there was a constrained fluidity about the drapery that came across the model's arm. This and the white suit were my favorite looks.

Overall this was a great start to London's take on fashion for SS16 and it certainly had me looking forward to more.